Upon leaving Tallinn airport, I breathe in so deeply I almost feel lightheaded. Armed with the knowledge that Estonia has the fourth best air quality in the world due to three-quarters of the country being covered in forests, I am eager to get some of that robust O2. I can immediately tell the difference between this fresh air and the smog-laden streets of New York.
Set within the Gulf of Finland in the heart of the Baltic region, Estonia boasts 2,222 islands, 2,361 miles of coastline, and you can bathe in (and even drink from) many of its lakes. Estonia is also known for its sauna culture which dates back to the 13th century and is listed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Getting away from the everyday stressors was the key reason I wanted to visit this tiny country and set off on a nature-based road trip.
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Settling in for a first night in the capital and specifically, the Old Town of Tallinn, I learn that Estonia has changed hands between Danes, Swedes, Germans, and Russians at various times in history. Walking the medieval cobblestone streets of the Old Town, I admire the fortitude of buildings that have held up over 700 years. I end up at Restaurant Lee, which has a serious romantic vibe with string lights, exotic trees, and a fairytale-like stone tower at the base. The venue specializes in local ingredients sourced from small producers and Estonian farmers. If you’re a vegan, this is a good spot to choose plates made with produce like roasted cabbage, fermented potato, and Estonian beetroot. I won’t forget the flavorful trout brought up in cold spring water.
Since I came to Estonia for the adventure, my first stop is to the Rummu Underwater Prison: a must for PADI-certified divers. The last prisoner left in 2012 and the quarry where the prisoners were mining limestone is now flooded creating a marine park for divers, snorkelers, kayakers, and paddleboarders. Since you can have the most basic training to dive (Open Water Certified), I was able to explore the quarry which included an abandoned maintenance shack, two pump stations, and small underwater trees. It was a wonderfully eerie experience to see the green tint and haze underwater created by marine microorganisms. The water temperature varies from 55-68 degrees throughout the dive sites, so having a thick wetsuit and hood was necessary.
In the crazy digital world we live in, I constantly seek out nature-based accommodations to decompress and meditate. A stop at the Maidla Nature Villas was a highlight of my trip. Located only 45 minutes from Tallinn in the middle of Estonian wetlands, I checked into one of the property’s tiny Nature Villas that sit on stilts. The wetlands were an ecological wonder with trees that have died and decomposed naturally creating mystical backdrops to a yoga or fireplace session on your private deck. The wood chip path that leads to the villas, a private sauna, and exfoliating bath gel and salts made my stay attention-to-detail eco-luxurious. A local chef, Daanius Aas, prepared a five-course meal sourced from Estonian farms and in the evening the sounds of nature were abundant with small frogs hopping out of my way on the path to the villas.
A drive through Estonia means you will see many fields filled with wildflowers, lots of agriculture, dotted with bucolic scenes of barns and farm animals. I experienced the smooth, well-paved roads with forested woodlands and local birds flying off on approach, gently disturbed from their hunting at the edge of the fields. Arriving at the Blue Springs of Saula, I took a short hike through the forest to land at a clearing with three springs with clear, aqua, and green colors. The springs were known to be spiritual waters for the historic inhabitants of Estonia. The Lahemaa National Park, 45 minutes from Saula, was a chance to continue communing with nature by walking the wooded paths throughout the many acres of peat moss bogs. The protected area is known to attract animals like bears, boar, lynx, and moose.
I live for tiny-home stays in nature and the ÖÖD Hötels Laheranna did not disappoint. These architectural beauties were constructed with an entire house and separate private mini sauna—both encased in mirrors. The tiny homes are conveniently located in the Jõelähtme district to the east of Tallinn, which has tons of hiking trails, beaches, and the Jägala Waterfall, which you can swim in when the temperatures allow. The interiors have a plush bed, kitchenette, and a full bathroom: you can look clearly out through the walls but anyone looking at the home could not see inside, only the mirrors. There are European design books inside to complement the wifi-free zone as well as yoga mats and matches for the wood burning sauna. I chose to have dinner a few miles away at Restaurant Ruhe, a seaside spot with white and gray wicker seating featuring meat and seafood dishes prepared by chef Dmitri Fjodorov.
ÖÖD Hötels Laheranna.
Continuing the road trip: the Lake Peipsi area of Estonia shares a border with Russia and is most famous for being the location of the “Old Believers”: a group of descendants of religious exiles who left Russia as they were facing persecution. They happen to be skilled fishermen and onion growers, creating what the locals call the “Onion Route”—similar to a wine route but for onions. I spotted dozens of bundles of yellow onions hanging on wooden stands, swinging in the slight breeze all along this route.
For example, you may stop at Talu Jalu, a small-scale family-run onion producer in the town of Kolkja, run by three generations of women.
The “Onion Route” in Estonia.
While in Lake Peipsi, I checked into the Mesi Tare boathouses, for a very rustic experience sleeping next to a tranquil lake away from city life. The diminutive houses have a large double bed in the bow, a seating area, and a kitchenette. Plus there is outdoor seating next to the boat and a campfire site with barbecue facilities on the sandy beach. Depending on the weather, you can also swim or kayak here. One or two nights is sufficient to experience the cold shower house with water used from the lake. I woke up for an early morning bathroom break and the slight noise made a few water birds take flight with the sunrise just touching the skyline. A European storybook experience.
The Mesi Tare boathouses.
Located 20 minutes from the boathouses is the Turgi Farm where I met the husband and wife team Ergo-Hart Västrik and Veinika Västrik. Their main business is handcrafted textiles, but in the summer months you can experience an intimate four-course meal they whip up with local ingredients from their farm as well as from nearby farmers and fisherman. Some of the recent dishes included gluten-free bread with eggplant, seeds, and banana, and chickpea powder baked fish. I never felt heavy or sluggish while dining around this Baltic country. Besides, the healthy local cuisine, rustic cabins, water-based adventures, and cultural highlights unique to Estonia provided the long-overdue nature escape I was seeking.